Sip, Savor & Far Niente
The jasmine-scented air of Scopello hints that this corner of Sicily is going to be more of a whisper than a shout. Salt air, sun-baked stone, the tang of lemons and delicate sweetness of wildflowers combine in the ancient fragrance of Sicily. A gentle breeze moves across the rusty anchors of the old tuna factory, La Tonnara, and lingers in the azure of the Tyrrhenian Sea.
The rustic heart of Scopello beats at the coast, where the 13th century Tonnara perches on the rocky shore. Today, it is preserved as a historic site where visitors can swim in impossibly clear water, snorkel among the fish, and imagine centuries of life centered around the annual tuna catch.
Lush Life
Scopello’s village center is a cluster of weathered stone buildings around a 17th-century baglio, or fortified farmhouse courtyard, once the heart of an agricultural estate. I find a patch of shade in the baglio at a small café table. I take a few notes and sip a cappuccino. This is a place for lingering, and the simple pleasure of “far niente”— doing nothing at all.
Dedication to people watching is an essential far niente skill. Visitors and locals pass through the ancient arch, browse colorful pottery, quietly chatting and savoring local treats. I sit quietly and pretend to mind my own business.
Take a Walk
Walking here is highly recommended. Strolling is a sensory knockout: wild herbs, waves lapping craggy shore, and the potent recharge of a cool swim in a hidden cove. Hiking is rewarded with streaming Sicilian sun and breathtaking views — unspoiled and magnificent.
Room With A View
We enjoy ten days at the lovely Residence Guidaloca, in a spacious apartment with sweeping sea views and wide outdoor deck. Sicilian kitten, Giovanni, joins us daily to hang out and look beseechingly at us for his own private reasons — effective and adorable. We love his greeting, “Ciao, ciao ciao!”
Residence Guidaloca is a series of Buckminster Fuller-style yurts, reimagined in stucco. Each has kitchen facilites and an outdoor patio, fully furnished and family-friendly. We love the sound of small children exploring Guidaloca’s verdant grounds covered with olive, palm and pine trees. Paradise!
We initially reserve one of the cute and cozy round structures, but are pleasantly astonished upon arrival to be mysteriously “upgraded” to a full apartment. The surprise is much appreciated, and we thoroughly enjoy the expansive, well-equipped digs throughout our sun-soaked Scopello sojourn.
Savor & Sustenance
Like all of Italy, Scopello is deeply identified with its cuisine, which pays homage to both local tradition and gloriously fresh seafood. We enjoy the discovery of Made ‘n Sicilia bistro, nestled nearby in a grassy, park-like setting, close to both our home-away and groceria, little Mio market.
Made ‘n Sicilia features fresh, locally-sourced seafood, shrimp, tuna and branzino, served with sides like sauteed spinach or roasted potatoes. We sample local pasta like curly busiate, and revisit beloved pastries like cannoli. We are introduced to the rustic and tasty concept of “Street Food,” which is now having a moment…
Street Food: Mamma Mia!
Street Food Defined
Okay: Sfincione is focaccia-style pizza, thick and dense, satisfying and simple. Pane Cunzato is a peasant sandwich of crusty bread, tomatoes and olive oil. Anchovies, meat or cheese are added as available, and topped with oregano. The word rosticceria encompasses savory fried foods like potatoes, rice balls (arancini), savory pastries and more.
Arancini Explained
There are as many versions of Arancini in this part of Italy as there are boats in the harbor. Quirky detail: In the east, they are “arancino,” masculine plural “arancini.” In the west, they are “arancina,” feminine plural “arancine” which is the spelling of choice here in Scopello.
Robust & Rustic
For rustic, slightly messy fare, don’t miss Panificio Di Stabile e Anselmo. Their porta via or takeaway baked goods are humble street classics. Sfincione with tomato and anchovy “dust” brings salty, Sicilian sapore. Oversized arancini arrive on brown paper to be eaten with your hands. Anselmo’s informal dining garden is lush and shady, crowded with natives and visitors enjoying unpretentious fare with a generous pinch of art and soul.
MATRIMONIO!
We’re here for a wedding, by far the best reason we have ever had for an extended far niente trip to Sicily. We begin our celebration early, saluting the happy couple with a glass of bubbly each evening and rehearsing a simple toast, “Buona Fortuna!” with enthusiasm and vigor.
The stage is set. Tables are decorated with tomatoes and herbs, a rustic detail at the outdoor, impeccably elegant event. The happy couple beams; family and friends are aglow. The incomparable opening night party lasts into the wee hours, as it should.
The big day is here. The bride steps onto a small balcony to robust cheering from her adoring crowd of friends, fans and family. She is beautiful!
Guests welcome, wiggle and wave to the lovely bride. The groom smiles, observing from above — handsome devil!
The ceremony itself is precious and perfect. An amazing dinner afterward — several courses and a late-night snack — caps a brilliant weekend of celebration. A wondrous beginning for what we all know will be a lifetime of happiness. Buona Fortuna!
Onward: Castellamare del Golfo
After our magical weekend, we decide to go exploring. We head for Castellammare del Golfo, a nearby seaside jewel with romantic waterfront, castle, and swoony stretch of beach. The sea reflects blue sky and drifting clouds, craggy rocks line the shore. Ah.
We settle at cliffside restaurant, “La Nuova Campana,” high on the sea wall, overlooking the Gulf. The setting is irresistible, but the food here is also wonderful, featuring shellfish, tuna, sea urchin, grilled meats, pasta dishes and much more.
The bistro also features a very busy wood-fired pizza oven, producing specialty pizzas from San Daniele to Diavola. The cliffside bounty is complemented by a sturdy, extensive wine list. To finish, graze through traditional Sicilian cassatelle, sorbetto or gelato — if you have room.
It’s A Plan
The city cascades from cliffside to waterfront via a surprisingly navigable maze of cobblestone streets. The neighborhoods remind us of Naples — crowded, close and convivial. We explore the pedestrian-friendly center, full of boutiques, galleries and souvenir shops. We admire the joyful ceramics of Susa De Simone, whose father created some of our favorite pieces, ages ago. Colorful, happy work!
As we stroll through historic, grassy parks, past handsome churches and monuments, the Driver muses, “Hm. Why not rent a place here, next year?” Suddenly, it’s a plan.
Tasty & Traditional
Caught in a light rain, we seek traditional (read: indoor) dining options, and explore central bistros along pedestrian-friendly Corso Garibaldi. We stumble upon La Maidda, where we share signature pasta with shrimp, garlic and herbs, and some delicately fried frutti di mare. Here, dining is the opposite of “fast food.” Meals are leisurely, ideally in good company, in a comfortable and convivial setting.
Walk It Off!
To balance the gluttony, Riserva Naturale Orientata dello Zingaro offers a pristine, seven-kilometer trail close to both Castellamare and Scopello. As Sicily’s first nature preserve, Zingaro offers undeveloped coastline with trails along secluded coves, shoreline caves and pebbled beaches.
Erice: For Everyone A View
We venture a little father off the beaten track, to Erice, whose vertiginous perch above the city of Trapani is a bird’s eye view of Sicily’s ancient past. From history to art to vibrant seasonal festivals, this is fascinating place to savor and explore. And as the Driver says, “Getting there is half the fun.”
A funicular from Trapani transports visitors wa-ay up the hill to Erice in small, well-behaved groups. The ride is terrifying, bouncy and almost fun — something to tell your grandkids. The unforgettable round-trip costs approximately €20 for two. The view is spectacular, truly, if you can open your eyes.
The town’s perfectly preserved medieval center is a delight to wander. Start your exploration at the medieval gate, Porta Trapani, and follow the network of narrow, winding streets to ancient landmarks, with stunning breakout views along the way.
At the town’s Polo Museal, we browse religious paintings, sacred objects and antiquities. We spend several hours inspecting Polo’s treasures, from breathtaking marble statues to ancient, shell-covered amphorae, and passionate religious paintings in brilliant color.
Despite its ancient vibe, Erice is alive with art and learning. Historic arts of weaving and ceramics are here, with geometric designs reflecting the area’s diverse cultural heritage. Local artisans have workshops and studios in the smaller side streets — get off the beaten path and don’t miss!
Note: Whether you come for the medieval history or panoramic views, exploring Erice is an enchanting, albeit uphill, experience. Please be advised that there is a lot of steep walking — not for the faint of heart or physically challenged.
Fond Farewell
Our visit to Scopello is a grateful surrender to a slower rhythm, where we savor warm sun on our skin, cool seawater on our feet, and life in a delicious Sicilian village that has stood the test of time. Next year, Castellammare del Golfo — it’s a plan!
Ciao, ciao, ciao! Ci vediamo presto!
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